Citta della Pieve, Umbria. “Call me. I can do anything for you. AN-knee-theeng.” This strange man had just thrust his card in front of my face, so close that even with my reading glasses on, I had not a prayer of reading it. He had followed me through the piazza on my way to buying sfuso wine, asking me if I worked here, and seemed delighted to hear my American Itanglish. I was brushing him off as…

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