Eat

Venice, Christ­mas Eve You leave the grand space of San Marco’s campo, with its four horses and St. Mark’s body, clipped as goods of war, now bring­ing cre­den­tial­iza­tion to the duomo. Walk along the water’s edge, and you’ll feel this stolen grandeur fade. Four stairs down step the plat­form closer to the water, where no doubt aqua alta splashes reg­u­larly when storms and high waters brew. Keep walk­ing, another block or two.To your left across the...

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